When I was 11 years old, my family planned a road trip around Boyacá, one of the departments located in the Andean region of Colombia. Boyacá was the background of many milestones of our independence, but at that age, that did not impress me. All I wanted was to stay in the car and listen to my Ashlee Simpson CD in peace. However, there was one little town that left a big impression on me after we made a leg-stretching-pitstop: Villa de Leyva. I had wanted to go back ever since, and little did I know it would take me 18 years to return.
Villa de Leyva is a colonial town located just about three hours north of Bogotá. Although it was founded in the 1500’s, it has managed to preserve most of its architecture, which makes for a breathtaking sight of times past: its cobblestone streets, inviting little corners, and well-kept white buildings are nothing short of beautiful. Another nice thing about Villa de Leyva is its people: you will find the nicest people wherever you go.
After spending two days there, I thought that, even if you run out of sights to see, or attractions to visit, Villa de Leyva is one of those places where you can sit down, have a cup of coffee, and simply reset the fast-paced clock of life.
Without further ado, here are my recommendations for your next Villa de Leyva trip:
Stay at the Plaza Mayor Hotel: This might be one of my favorite hotels I have ever stayed at. This colonial building was remodeled and expanded a few years ago, preserving its original feel and architecture. The hotel is located right in front of the Plaza Mayor and the Parroquia Nuestra Señora del Rosario, making for unique rooftop views. The rooms are super cozy, packed with a chimney, a balcony (some of them), and an expansive bathroom for extra comfort. The décor encapsulates Villa de Leyva’s Mountain vibe, which can be appreciated everywhere, from the curtains to the bedding, and the shelves. The hotel has a terrace and many wholesome corners that are fully adapted to welcome guests and their glasses of wine. And one of the most important things: the staff is helpful and nice all the time!
Have dinner at Mercado Municipal: This corner house is home to several sustainable small businesses, like a pastry shop, a bar, and the main restaurant. Founded 13 years ago, it has become a gastronomic tourism referent in Colombia, so we were very excited to try it. We decided to sit outside, among the abundant vegetation that characterizes the patio. We tried the braised lamb, the white pizza with Chocó anchovies, and the longaniza in apple glaze. Although we didn’t try any desserts, they all looked amazing!
Have coffee or hot drinks at El Museo del Chocolate: This place caught our eye while walking down the street, and I was thrilled to discover that their hot chocolate was even better than their lush décor. We tried the chocolate con ruana, hot chocolate topped with cheddar cheese and golden powder that a server nicely flamed at our table. As an afternoon treat, we got the arepa con ruana, another flamed item. While we only had snacks, the menu is very comprehensive, offering options for all meals.
Have Bocadillo Ice Cream for dessert: This ice cream is inspired by the traditional “matrimonio”, the pairing of bocadillo (guava paste) and white cheese. While this may sound like an odd combination, I guarantee it is absolutely tasty. You will find this treat at the little tiendas or convenience stores just west of the Church. Worry not, as they will have signs advertising this ice cream. Make sure you order it to-go, that way you will be able to enjoy it as you wander around the neighboring stores.
Have breakfast at el Café Jardin: This little nook is a delicious option for breakfast. If the weather allows it, grab a table in the backyard, a hiding place from the rather busy street. Try the arepa con hogao, hands-down, one of my favorite things I had in Villa de Leyva.
Have lunch at El Atico: El Atico is a small shopping centre that features a wide range of food vendors. While we went there at night, we figured all restaurants would be a great lunch option. Since most restaurants close quite early, we ended up eating at La Pinta Pizzeria, an Italian restaurant that has an extensive menu of pastas and pizzas that looked equally delicious. Additionally, you can check out Partisanas, a bar where you can sip cocktails, or the Boyaca-brewed beer Bruder.
Take a tour at Ain Karim winery: I was surprised by the beauty of this winery, but I was even more amazed by its professional staff and the quality of its service. I can happily say that their tours are notoriously better than many wineries I have visited in wine regions like Virginia and California, which makes me both proud, and sad that more people don’t know about Ain Karim. Although it was raining, we got the couple’s package, which included a walking tour of the vineyard and the wine cellar. Afterwards, we were given a pairing class that included a charcuterie board to accompany the wines we were tasting. We were impressed by how knowledgeable and nice the staff was. Ain Karim was definitely an amazing experience that we will keep recommending.
Visit la Casa Terracota: Another surprise in Villa de Leyva. While the house is recommended in many travel blogs, I thought little of the experience. I found this house, the largest clay structure in the world, to be an ever-evolving masterpiece. It is a fun spot to take pictures and get to know about the architect, Octavio Mendoza, his inspiration, and little hidden details that make for this interesting building.
Take a tour around Pozos Azules: While the ponds are far from being one of the world’s seventh wonders, hiking and taking an ATV tour around pozos azules proved to be a fun (although messy) experience. There are several tour providers around town that will offer this option, as well as buggy driving and horse-back riding. Alternatively, you could pay the entry fee and just take a self-guided walking tour, so you can hike at your own pace.
Other tips you should take into account before and during your trip:
Try to travel by day, as the roads are not perfect and they are not always well-illuminated.
You can rent a car close to the airport. However, if you are used to driving automatic vehicles, the only company that provides them is Localiza.
If you can travel throughout the week, I highly encourage it, as the town gets packed during the weekends, holidays, and its many festivals.
It gets really warm during the day, and rather chilly at night, so be prepared. We were told it rains a lot in late February- early March, so bringing an umbrella don't hurt.
I am dying to go back to Villa de Leyva, so if you have any tips or recommendations to add to this list, leave them on the comment section below!
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